by Tarana Husain Khan (Author), Claire Chambers (Author), Siobhan Lambert-Hurley (Author)
“What is food for you? A delight? An indulgence? A memory maybe? The smell and the taste preserved like a roti wrapped in a thick cotton cloth we used to call ‘chhanna’.” This evocative opening sets the tone for “Forgotten Foods,” a beautifully curated collection of culinary memories and recipes from Muslim households, establishments, and street vendors. The editors, through a rich tapestry of personal anecdotes and historical insights, celebrate the profound connections food creates, transcending generations and cultural boundaries.
The book’s narrative is thoughtfully divided into four sections, each offering a unique perspective on the significance of food. The first section, “Memories,” captures intimate family histories, blending distant and recent pasts into a nostalgic narrative. The second section, “Identities in Flux,” takes a scholarly approach, examining the evolution of culinary cultures amidst broader societal changes. This section stands out for its insightful exploration of how food reflects and adapts to shifting identities.
In “Survival and Revival,” the third section, the book pays homage to the food warriors—families, street vendors, restaurateurs, farmers, and festival organizers—who tirelessly preserve and revive fading culinary traditions. This tribute underscores the resilience and dedication of those who keep these rich traditions alive. The final section, “A Dish in Time,” invites readers to explore individual dishes, showcasing the vibrant particularities of regional cuisines.
Contributions from renowned writers such as Muneeza Shamsie, Moneeza Hashmi, Rana Safvi, Bina Shah, Taran Khan, Tarana Husain Khan, and Claire Chambers enrich the book. Among the many captivating stories, those from Bhopal, penned by Tarana Husain Khan, Sikander Malik, and Rana Safvi, are particularly memorable. Malik delves into Bhopal’s history and his personal experiences, revealing the secret of Gupchup Shami kebab. Khan recounts a trip to Bhopal, where a princess hosted her, leading to a delightful culinary comparison between Bhopali and Rampuri flavors. Safvi nostalgically remembers her mother’s elaborate breakfasts, especially the roghini roti.
The stories are deeply infused with nostalgia and flavors, making “Forgotten Foods” a sensory and emotional journey. The editors’ assertion that food is a universal language, a mirror to feelings, is beautifully illustrated throughout the book. Cooking and eating together, as the book demonstrates, brings people closer, bridging gaps of time and culture.
However, a word of caution: don’t read this book on an empty stomach. The vivid descriptions and heartfelt stories will undoubtedly leave you hungry for both the dishes and the memories they evoke. “Forgotten Foods” is not just a cookbook; it’s a celebration of heritage, memory, and the enduring power of food to connect us all.